All Aboard Via Rail’s Canadian : Embarking Train #1 in Toronto Ontario

Boarding Via Rail's Canadian Train

“For they looked in the future

And what did they see

They saw an iron road runnin’

From the sea to the sea.”

                                                                    Gordon Lightfoot, Canadian Railroad Trilogy

Slow Travel Across Canada

 
Embarking on Via Rail’s iconic Canadian is more than just a train ride – it’s an invitation to step into a living piece of Canadian history, and a means to explore the country. Every time we have stepped into Toronto’s Union Station or Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station, we have felt the same thrill of excitement knowing that an adventure. 

The realization that you are stepping on board one of the world’s last remaining transcontinental trains and that for 5 days this long line of iconic steel cars is our home is truly wondrous. With no Wifi on board, large panoramic windows, and terrific options for dining while meeting new people, Via Rail’s Canadian is the perfect slow travel journey.

Toronto, Ontario

 
We arrived in Toronto, Ontario’s provincial capital and one of the main business centres in Canada, late last night. This is the final step on a long series of trips and adventures throughout the past few months that saw us walk the length of Portugal on the Rota Vicentina and Camino Portuguese Coastal and Espiritual.  

Afterwards, we went to the UK to trek across England and Scotland on Wainwright’s Coast to Coast, the Pennine Way, the West Highland Way, the Great Glen Way, and Hadrian’s Wall. 

Then almost three months of near-continuous pilgrimage and hiking, we were fortunate to be able to sail back across the Atlantic Ocean to North America on Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 before making our way back home to Canada. Arriving in Nova Scotia, we next journeyed from Halifax to Montreal, Quebec, on Via Rail's Ocean Train service and onwards to Toronto. Today, we begin the final step of our travels – boarding Via Rail’s Canadian, which will take us from Toronto to Vancouver and home.

I think that it is safe to say that it was the 556 days hiking 14,000 km on the Trans Canada Trail, when we became hooked on slow travel, and this year’s adventures are a reflection of that mindset.

Toronto Union Station   

Our journey on the Canadian begins in Toronto’s Union Station, the eastern terminus for the transcontinental train service as well as the transit hub of the city. Built in 1927 as a joint venture between Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk Railway, Union Station is an imposing structure whose interior has soaring architecture and a bustling atmosphere. 

As we walk through the main hallway toward the Via Rail desk, we are caught in the middle of the morning rush hour. The large rolling suitcase with our formal clothes from our time on Queen Mary 2 and our two large backpacks are not ideal to have on us as we navigate the busy concourse. Regardless, we are soon checked, able to deposit our luggage and head to Via Rail’s lounge. Here we select our meal seating time and are given a coloured slip of paper reminding us of our choice.

Embarkation on Via Rail's Canadian 

With coffee and a muffin in hand, we get a seat and wait. Not long afterwards, and only half an hour before departure at 9:30 AM, the first call rings out over the PA system indicating that boarding for the Canadian Train #1 has begun! Smartly dressed Via Rail staff led passengers through Union Station. There is no denying that the announcement for this train turns people’s heads. The notion of travelling across Canada by train is still exciting.

Having entered the Concourse, we directed to ascend the escalator to Track #16 – at the top, we get our first views of the distinct long line of iconic silver steel train cars with periodic dome cars spread throughout. There is no mistaking which train in Union is the Canadian. This train stands out amid more than a track filled with green commuter Go Trains and the more modern Amtrak train sitting nearby. These are the same cars that have been used since the 1950s when CP originally purchased them to begin a transcontinental service in Canada.

Finding our Rail Car

Our tickets indicate which train car number and seat we have been given. Having made reservations for berth sleeping, we are pointed to near the back of the long train and make our way down the platform passing dozens of iconic sleek steel train cars.. At the door to each car, a friendly Via Rail staff member and car attendant greets passengers. They help people on board, help them get settled and show them the way around the train.

Each car on the Canadian has been named. Some are named after an influential Canadian or an explorer, or artist, or a leader. Through the twists of fate throughout the years, we have repeatedly found ourselves on Car #8308, also known as Bliss Manor. 

Which, according to the on board plaque, was named for Daniel Bliss, who settled in New Brunswick in 1784, was a Commisssary with the British Forces in the Revolutionary War and later became a member of the First Council of the Province. As always, in stepping on board, passengers enter into a part of the Canadian national experience.

Finding our Berth 

Showing our tickets, we are shown to our assigned seats by the cabin steward. With our luggage slipped under our seats, we settle down. We are seated opposite each other on comfortable bench seating with a huge window beside us. These seats will later be made into the lower bunk while the upper berth is unlocked from the ceiling. During the day however, one could not guess at how this functional space could be transformed into such comfortable sleeping quarters.

Given the number of people on board, the Canadian train is more than two dozen cars long, meaning that it extends beyond the covered platform of Union Station. Despite the number of passengers on board, the sheer amount of luggage that Via Rail must contend with and all the logistics involved in running trains across the country, we are ready to set out on time. At 9:55 AM, the engines of the Canadian slowly begin to hum – it almost feels as though you can sense the train coming to life. Ready for departure, we leave our things and head to the dome car to get a bird’s eye view of Toronto. 

We are barely seated when the train begins to pull out of Union Station, and our journey commences. Being only 4 cars from the rear, we have a clear view of the long silver train slowly pulling forward. The shadow of the CN Tower passes overhead, and we are off!

Canadian Itinerary: Toronto to Vancouver

 
The journey on the Canadian spans more than 4400 km and traverses five provinces from Toronto Ontario, to Vancouver, British Columbia. Train #1 travels from east to west on this route while Train #2 travels from west to east. The voyage will take 4 nights and 5 days and during that time passengers experience the full range of the country’s landscapes, from the dense forests of Northern Ontario to the stunning mountain ranges of Alberta and BC. 

Typically, the voyage breaks down into something like this:

Day 1: Departing Toronto, the train travels through central Ontario’s forests and lakes, crossing the Canadian Shield.

Day 2: Heading into Northern Ontario, we continue through rugged terrain and arrive in Winnipeg, Manitoba, where the train is resupplied and new crew members take over.

Day 3: The Canadian Prairies of Manitoba and Saskatchewan offer sweeping views, gradually transitioning into the foothills of the Rockies in Alberta.

Day 4: The train stops in Jasper, Alberta, before spending the rest of the day amid the breathtaking Rocky Mountain range.

Day 5: The final leg takes us through the suburbs and communities of the Greater Vancouver Area, eventually bringing us to the beautiful Pacific Central Station in Vancouver BC.

Regardless of this itinerary however, delays are not unusual, and life on the train is very much about the moments in between the mileposts. The Canadian is, in many ways, more about the journey than the destination. With that said, over the years Via Rail has added extra time and an extra day to the schedule to account for the unexpected delays that can happen.

Departing Toronto, Escaping the City

 
While the amenities of cities are useful and the cultural aspects of places like Montreal and Toronto are enjoyable, the fact is that years of backpacking and hiking have made us more at home in the countryside than amid such large urban settings. Many people thrive amid such busy city centres, but more often than not, we are glad to escape them.

Leaving Toronto, the train moves through a corridor of huge office towers that dominate the centre of the city while around us cars on the roadways and highways rush past. The pace of the Canadian is stately, comfortable and constant but it certainly cannot be described as racing across the country. In his manner, we slowly roll through Ontario’s largest city following Go Transit’s rail line through Markham, Richmond Hill, and York Region before rounding Lake Simcoe and passing through the cities of Barrie and Orillia.

The hustle and bustle of the city quickly fades into the distance and we enter the tranquil wilderness of Ontario’s forests following the sun west. Sitting in the dome car, we watch as the train winds through the landscape, a long line of silver cars and glittering observation domes curving through dense forests and sprawling lakes.

Scenic Stops and Lunch

 
Not long after departing, we make our first stop in Washago. The town’s name comes from the indigenous term “Wash-a-go-min” which apparently means “sparkling waters.” This community is considered the gateway to the Muskokas and its vast number of lakes, which are popular cottage and vacation destinations.

Stops are announced on board throughout the day for those waiting for their station or curious about where we are at the moment. In addition, smokers and anyone interested in stepping off the train are able to request to be woken up in the night if they desire to stretch their legs.

While still excited to be back on board and loving the views from the dome car our seating for lunch is called, and we make our way to the dining car. Sleeper Class passengers are treated to three meals each day, which are included in the cost of their ticket. Breakfast and lunch are relaxed, and you are seated with other passengers in an open room with panoramic windows that allow you to continue to sightsee as you eat. Today we enjoy a quinoa salad and a dessert of cake with ice cream, along with a strong coffee. On board, the meals are delicious and the portion sizes are generous.

After lunch, and now 150 miles from Toronto, we cross a large trestle bridge and enter into the town of Parry Sound. This community sits on the eastern edge of the Canadian Shield, a billion-year-old bedrock that spans between the Great Lakes and Hudson Bay. From here on, throughout the afternoon, the landscape slowly transforms from pastoral fields to coniferous forests broken up by the frequent lakes and marshlands.

Hours later, we have our next stop in Sudbury Junction, located near to the city of Sudbury, which is known as the “nickel capital” of Canada. Sudbury has long been a city centred on the mining industry. The region is the site to one of the world’s richest abundances of rare earth materials and resources, thought to be the result of a massive meteor impact. Though at one point the region had been so heavily mined that Sudbury was named the nation’s Lunar Garden in recent years it has gone through impressive levels of restoration and reforestation.

Beyond Sudbury, we continue through the remote beauty of Northern Ontario. Here the terrain becomes more rugged with exposed granite, evergreen forests, and waterways that typify the landscapes of the Canadian Shield.

Afternoon Activities

As the afternoon passes, the Canadian continues its journey and the announcement for the day’s activities is made. Each day’s activities are listed in the Skyline car by the staff on board. From presentations on Canadian history or on the landscapes of the region to wine or beer tasting, there is always something going on. Today’s activity is a wine tasting with a focus on Ontario wines.

Throughout this half-hour event the staff give talks on each wine and the winery they are from. Though the finer points of differing wines are often lost on us many of the other passengers appreciate the information and the opportunity to try region specialities. Chief among those participating are often European travellers. Without fail it often becomes clear that Canadian wines are not up to the same standards or taste as those found in France, Italy or Spain, which many of these people are used to. A similar reaction also takes place during the beer tasting when those more accustomed to the heavier British stouts and German ales find Labatt's and Bud Light to be a poor substitute. Regardless, it is an experience and one that many enjoy.

The wine tasting ends as the Canadian rolls past a railway museum on the edge of Capreol. Here, passengers have their first “smoking stop” which is usually involves a 20-30 minute break at the station where passengers can step off the train and stretch their legs. During these passengers can wander the platform and see the Canadian in its full glory. On this trip, the train has 28 cars and is so long that it spans beyond the platform. 

Soon, the Via staff call out for re-boarding, and passengers gather, returning to their cars and seats. With everyone (hopefully) back on board, the doors are sealed and we depart Capreol and enter the more remote landscapes of Northern Ontario, which we will spend tonight and most of tomorrow crossing.

Dinner on board the Canadian

As happens, the day has passed by quickly, and soon the staff are making the call for the first seating for dinner. Given that we have second seating, we have time and so take the opportunity to freshen up and change out of our wrinkled travel clothes. 

Dining on board the Canadian is not simply a meal, it is an occasion. Many people change into smart casual clothes and embrace the social atmosphere of the dining car. Travelling individually or travelling as a duo means that we are typically seated with other individuals or couples for meals, changing dinner into a social event. As a result throughout the years, we have chatted with lots of interesting people, learned about other countries and cultures and heard varied perspectives on a range of topics. Each meal brings something new.

Like lunch, dinner includes a starter of soup or salad, a main course and a dessert. We have always enjoyed meals on the Canadian as there is a vegetarian option at each sitting. During meals, passengers are offered water, coffee, tea and soft drinks, and though wine, beer and mixed alcoholic drinks are available, they are provided at an extra cost.

All in all, dining on board is simply the perfect way to bring the day to an end.

Evening on the Canadian

Throughout our evening meal, our seats have been folded down and converted a sleeping berth while a second berth is unlocked from the ceiling. As we have eaten our beds have been seamlessly made up. Tomorrow morning during breakfast this process will be reversed and put away during breakfast each day.

With dinner done, we say our goodnights and return to our bed where we change our clothes and snuggle into the thick duvets and relaxing pillows that have been set out for us. The nights on the train are serene.

In addition to having our beds made up for us each day, passengers are also provided with a fresh shower kit which includes towels, shampoo and soap. These can be used and disposed of in the lockable shower room located at the end of every sleeper car. This small room provides passengers a dry space to change in, a push button shower and a towel disposal.

As night falls and passengers return to their sleeping quarters train continues on and still has a number of stops to make throughout the night in places such as Gogama and Hornepayne. Communities like these are fascinating, offering glimpses into the world of Canada’s railway history and the communities that once grew up around the railroads. 

The Canadian Pacific and Canadian National lines that cross the country had a profound impact on the nation. The routes chosen shaped not just the development of the country but the fortunes of towns and communities along the way. Historically, the arrival of the train transformed isolated settlements into bustling hubs, while the departure often spelled decline. Even today, communities that are still connected to active rail lines feel their impact with access to the train often marking a significant place in the region’s culture as well as their economy.

Slow Travel, Big Adventure

  
With our first day on board at an end we both slip into our assigned berths and button up the curtains. Here the mattress is cozy, the duvets are welcoming and my view out the window is glorious. 

When you board the Canadian, you not just getting on a train – you’ve stepped into a five-day voyage where everything seems to slow down, and the world outside unfolds like a living postcard.  No wifi, no distractions from the moment, just the rolling landscapes of Canada and the rhythm of the train.  Whether you spend your time sitting in the dome car, or swapping stories in the dining car with other passengers being on a train journey is slow travel at its finest.  Every moment on the train invites you to pause and absorb the changing scenery, from the dense forests of the Canadian Shield to the vast prairies to the towering Rocky Mountains.  It’s a rare kind of journey where the trip itself is just as important as the destination!

See you on the trails or the rails!